Iceland

The Land of Fire and Ice!

Mysterious, dramatic, stunningly awesome…

Thursday 7/4/24

Happy Independence Day America!

We have arrived in Iceland!  As we left the ferry port in Seyðisfjörður, we were enveloped in snowcapped mountains, low clouds, fog, misty rain, frozen lakes, ice banks on the road, etc.   Oh boy, what a “warm” welcome!  Besides all that, the scenery is just breathtaking.  I sat inside the cab with a coat on and a blanket covering my legs, and then I put my gloves on, and pulled out a second coat to keep warm since we couldn’t control the temperature inside the cab to stop the windshield from fogging up so Paul can drive in the fog with limited visibility.

I found a campsite about 17 miles away so we rushed there to get some rest after battling with the rough sea the night before and no dinner for me.

We camped at Camp Egilsstaðir, catching up with laundry and just a much needed rest after a rough ferry crossing.

Friday 7/5/24

Sightseeing Day! I’m much better prepared today:  thermal base layer, heated vest, beanie, scarf, gloves, and a down, waterproof Gore-tex coat. I’m ready to take on Iceland now.🤗

First stop, a beautiful waterfall in Þjóðvegur.  Waterfalls are everywhere in Iceland as the snow melts and carves the side of the mountains.  We were told that tourists would eventually say: “not another waterfall!”  I hope that’s not the case for me, but we’ll tell you at the end of the trip!

The next stop was the Stuðlagil Basalt canyon.  When we were in the parking lot, we thought it’s just a short walk to see the canyon.   However, we see practically everyone was changing into their high-tech hiking gears, poncho, hiking shoes, etc so we thought we’d better put on our hiking shoes as well,  and good thing we did because it was a loooong hike around the canyon, about 6 miles round trip to get to the scenic spot.  Once we got there, it was a “wow” factor, a jaw dropping sight!  The sheer hexagonal basalt columns that look like sculptures on both sides of the canyon with crystal clear blue glacial river running through it, and a two tier waterfalls to grace the canyon.  God couldn’t have designed a more perfect outdoor setting than this!

Did you know:

“These columns of rock are most likely a volcanic rock called basalt. (Basalt makes up about 90% of all the lava rock on earth.) How do these basalt columns form? Or, more specifically, how is it possible for it to form such perfect columns, many of which look like they are hexagonal cylinders? It’s due to a physical process that can happen in melted lava rock as it cools.”

Ref. https://askanearthspacescientist.asu.edu/top-question/columnar-jointing

We were dead tired after this long hike.  Remember all those layers that I had on?  They were great at the start of the hike, but by the time I got back to BAT, I was soaked in sweat 😁.

We drove back to camp and had dinner at the Salt Cafe.  The pizzas were freshly made.  They were so good!  And I topped that off with an Irish coffee cake.  I think I’ve earned it for a good workout today, 15k steps.  Yeah!

Saturday 7/6/24

We’re heading south today, going on the Ring Road, quite a scenic drive from the mountain going down to the ocean with spectacular views in all directions. Lupin flowers are blooming everywhere.  Some sections of this scenic drive are covered with the purple Lupins, other sections are covered with yellow Buttercups. What an amazing tapestry of colorful grounds against the snow, white mountains with low hovering clouds.  The lyrics “the hills are alive with the sound of music” keep echoing in my mind…  If you’re an artist looking for inspiration to paint, this is where you should go!

We headed towards Fossardalur Campsite for the night, but within one mile to the camp, we discovered the powerful Múlafoss Waterfall, an amazingly blue glacial water color fall that doesn’t even look real.  At the top tier of the fall, among the wide drape of white rushing water is a streak of blue water as though it was weaved into the stream. And at the basin is the creamy baby blue glacial water that looks so refreshingly gorgeous!  Another wow factor today!

Sunday 7/7/24

As we continue to drive southward on the ring road, glaciers started to appear on the right side, contrasting against an unusually blue color ocean.   Then we saw a sign that said “glaciers” so we took a detour and travel on a gravel dirt road for 10+ miles and got rewarded with a glacier bay hidden behind a hill.  We took a little hike up the hill and the glaciers revealed itself in a very dramatic setting.  We had lunch here and headed out for more exploration.

The ring road continues to display glaciers after glaciers; it’s as though we have stumbled upon glaciers wonderland.  Then all of a sudden, we saw a big parking lot with lots of cars and as we got closer, I gasped excitedly: “look, glaciers haven!”  We parked BAT and discovered that we have just entered “Glaciers Lagoon!” OMG, glaciers in the back drop and icebergs are scattered across the lagoon in a beautiful arrangement.  What an amazing sight! Words cannot simply describe this natural wonder.  It is just magical! Shame on us for not having done our homework to visit this iconic attraction, but thank heavens for guiding us here to enjoy this wonderland.

They have amphibious and zodiac tours here to go around the Lagoon.   It looks so much fun, but it was already past 6 pm so we elected not to take the boat tour and headed towards a campsite.  The dirt road took us to a hidden glaciers nestled deep in the mountain so this is where we’ll camp for the night, in the Mulagljufur Canyon.

Iceland keeps surprising us every day with a different natural wonder. It’s no wonder Iceland is high on the bucket list for people across the globe.

Monday 7/8/24

We caught up with Tiffany & Kurtis near Kálfafell, gassed up and headed for the F-roads.  The F-roads are unpaved gravel tracks that only open during the summer months and are only accessible in a 4×4 vehicle.  Most F-roads crisscross the highlands; the central mountainous region. (The “F” comes from the work “fjall” which means mountain in Icelandic.)

As soon as we turned off from highway 1, the road got pretty rough, bumpy and narrow.  Tiffany and Kurtis have done all the homework so all we had to do is follow their lead.  After driving in the volcanic valley for a couple of hours, we arrived at the Fagrifoss waterfall.  Wow, what a hidden gem in the middle of nowhere.  Both Kurtis and Paul got so excited, they went back to the truck to get their drones.  This remote spot was quiet without tourists except for us so we took our time taking pictures and droning.

Afterward we drove to Blágil Skáli & Jaldsvæði to camp for the night.   You’d think people don’t live here, but a little camp is built out here for campers, like us?

Tuesday 7/9/24

Today we convoyed further into the volcanic valley to visit Laki:

“the infamous volcanic system that erupted violently over an eight-month period between June 1783 and February 1784 from the Laki fissure and the adjoining volcano Grímsvötn.  It poured out an estimated 42 billion tons of basalt lava as well as clouds of poisonous hydrofluoric acid and sulfur dioxide compounds that contaminated the soil, leading to the death of over 50% of Iceland’s livestock population, and the destruction of the vast majority of all crops. This led to a famine which then killed at least a fifth of the island’s human population, although some have claimed a quarter.

Ref Wikipedia

We did a hike up Mt. Laki, which was a very steep hike.  At the summit, the view was magnificent.   To the left is a row of craters; in the center is Laki Crater lake, and to the right is a massive glacier.  The boys were droning and the girls took pictures of the area.  We spent quite a bit of time at the view point before descending, and then back to our truck.

The drive out of the Laki National Park was rough, but eventually turned scenic with the permafrost and volcanic moss.  A very unusual landscape with green rolling hills on one side, and the other side, black in volcanic ashes, quite a contrast!  Kurtis did a few drone shots, and the landscape doesn’t even look real from high up.  Amazing perspective looking down at Mother Earth!

Once we returned to camp, we gathered inside BAT for a light cheese & cracker snack, wine, apples, chocolate, mixed nuts, coffee, etc.  Four people consumed two bottles of wine? Hmmm… the girls are lightweight; it’s the boys that did all the heavy drinking!

It was a really great tour today, thanks to Tiffany and Kurtis.

Wednesday 7/10/24

We left the volcanic valley and made our way back to Hwy 1, while enjoying the views along the way.

Camped at Tjaldstæðið Kirkjubær Il, cottages and camping.

Tiffany and Kurtis invited us over for dinner tonight.  We had spaghetti and meatball, wine and dessert. They are such gracious hosts.  It was a lovely evening to chat and share stories over a cozy meal.  What a sweet couple.  We are truly spoiled by them being our tour guide,  and made us dinner too.  Another adventure awaits tomorrow.

Thursday 7/11/24

Epic day today! I saw an ad for the Tesla Cybertruck crossing a waterfall in Iceland and I was determined to find it and replicate it with BAT.

I’ve been asking around and googled search, and all it said was the ad campaign was done in the highland of Iceland.  I showed a picture of the ad to Tiffany and Kurtis, she seems to recognize it, and said she’ll find it.  Luckily, a couple of weeks later, Paul found the name of the waterfall on YouTube.

After catching up with Tiffany and Kurtis in Iceland we made plan for it, and here we are, at last, the magnificent Bláfjallafoss Fall and epic river crossing.  The day started out warm, sunny and beautiful, but by the time we arrived at the Fall, heavy gusty wind picked up.  Kurtis launched the drone, we did a couple of takes crossing the river, but the wind had gotten so strong, we decided to take a break, have lunch, and wait for the wind to die down. The wind was howling and rocking both of our trucks like a cradle.  I checked the weather forecast which indicated that the wind won’t calm down until late evening.   So disappointed that we didn’t get the drone shot we wanted, but Paul was determined to stay put until he can drone.

Tiffany and Kurtis decided to continue exploring further into the valley.  By 5p.m., the wind lightened up so we got out and did a few more runs crossing the river at least 3 round trips to get the drone shots at multiple angles.  Success! Bucket list checked.  I’m packing up to go home now! ( Not really 😁)

Check out the video of the crossing to really appreciate this magnificent landscape since this picture doesn’t do justice for this magical spot: https://youtu.be/s2XgVYGLncA?si=S6Ajw24ySXDIUmK4

Friday 7/12/24

The gusty wind picks up again late at night.  By the time we left the waterfall, the strong wind was blowing the water from the fall upward like a big sprinkler or fire hose.  It definitely defied the law of gravity!

We left the epic Bláfjallafoss waterfall and headed back to highway 1 after 3 hours of driving on the dirt road, but we were rewarded with more beautiful sights along the way.

We weren’t so lucky with the weather today, high wind, rain, and a bit foggy.  We’ve been very lucky so far with the weather in Iceland.

We drove passed Vik and went to a wild camp site near the Seljalandsfoss waterfall.  This place was soooo windy, the howling wind was constantly loud which gave me a headache.   It’s like listening to loud music for a prolonged period.

Hoping for a better day tomorrow so we can do the Golden Circle.

Saturday 7/13/24

Gloomy weather, rain and wind continued today, but we made the best of it.  We stopped by the Seljalandsfoss waterfall where you can walk behind the waterfall.  The mighty waterfall is quite powerful and 197 feet drop created an astounding pool on the ground.  With the heavy wind shifting the water from the fall into heavy mists, tourists surely got a good spray if they came near the fall.  Well that didn’t stop anyone, including me.   I had to constantly clean my camera lens to keep it clear for the next shot.

After that “immersive” experience, we headed off to get some laundry done and found a laundromat in Hvolsvöllur.  It was the most expensive laundry we’ve ever done in the last 5 years.  For just two small loads and one big load, it costs us about $100 for washing and drying.  That’s not a typo with an additional zero.  Ouch!!!

Iceland doesn’t have a lot of public laundromats, so you can’t be picky.  In fact, you’d be lucky if you can find one as you travel across Iceland. 

Camped at Hvolsvöllur Camp Site.

Sunday 7/14/24

We were planning on going to the Golden Circle today, but the weather was dreary, cold, windy, and raining again, so we elected to drive towards Reykjavik to restock and refuel at Costco.

Camped at Saga Camp.

Monday 7/15/24

Good thing we delayed touring the Golden Circle till today because the weather is just perfect, sunny and 67 degree.

We got to the Þingvellir National Park, one of the highlights of the Golden Circle, but the area is swarming with mosquitoes, where people were wearing mosquito net so we elected to move on.  It sounds lame, but we had an unpleasant experience with mosquitoes in our Arctic Expedition, so touring this park would be unpleasant for us.

Our next stop is the Geysir.  While there are multiple geysers in the park, their eruption was about 40% of the full pressure.  Unfortunately, even with the strong sulfate smell in the area, there were mosquitoes buzzing around there too.  Some even went into my ear.  Urgh!  I had to wrap a scarf around the head to prevent them from entering my ear again.  I’m sure I look like a crazy woman wearing the scarf around my head when everyone is walking in t-shirts.  Hey, a girl has to do what she got to do to survive in the wilderness!  The geysers were uneventful since the eruption was far and few.

We moved on and finally arrived at the most iconic site in Iceland (for me), the Gullfoss Waterfall!  Definitely one of the highlights for my Icelandic trip.  The fall is so powerful with multiple tiers, and we were graced with a rainbow across the waterfall.  As we hiked near the fall, we all got a good spray from the mist, but it was so worth it.

We were told once we’re done touring Iceland, we’d be saying: “Not another waterfall!”  No, not me, I love waterfalls, and I would never get tire of them.  It’s kinda like saying: “not another dress!” (Only women can understand and appreciate this analogy! 😁)

Our next stop was The Secret Lagoon!  The adjacent active geyser which spouts every few minutes, (showing off for the guests), provide 100% of the water supply in the lagoon.  The pool water flows continuously, and it takes only 24 hours to its complete replacement.  Warm, clean, rich in sulfur, stays at 38-40 Celsius (100 – 104 degree Fahrenheit) all year round.

That was a fun Icelandic experience!

We finished the day having dinner at a local restaurant, Kaffi-Sel, with quite expensive pizza, but then everything is expensive in Iceland, understandably.  And BTW, diesel is about $8.74/ gallon.  OUCH!!!

But to make up for it, they let us camped in their parking lot for free, so it was a win- win.👍

Tuesday 7/16/24

We left the Golden Circle after a fun-filled day yesterday. We’re heading north today to continue our exploration of Iceland.

Stopped by the Gerðuberg Cliffs. Gerðuberg is a row of perfectly shaped hexagonal basalt columns that run along a cliff on the southern side of the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula, in west Iceland.  These columns are between 23 to 46 feet tall and up to five feet wide. Many have compared the feature to a fortress wall.  The most unusual thing about Gerðuberg is how the columns are so geometrically symmetrical that they seem to be carved by hand.

Ref.  “Guidetoiceland.is” website.

We haven’t even gotten out of BAT yet and were already surrounded by a group of tourists as we parked next to a tour bus.  They were all impressed with BAT and asked all kind of questions regarding BAT and our travel destinations.   Very friendly group of tourists from Norway, Sweden, etc.

Next stop, Bjarnarfoss, another accidental discovery on the road.  The multi-tier waterfall didn’t look like much from the road, but once we hiked near it, it was so picturesque and breathtaking.  Every waterfall in Iceland is so unique in their own way that they shouldn’t be compared against one another.  And no, I’m not tired of waterfalls yet.

As we returned to BAT, we met a group of four young men from the USA that are traveling here for their bachelor getaway party.  What a fun experience for them to hang out with each other on an epic roadtrip to Iceland!  Isn’t this so much better than get wasted in Vegas?!

Wednesday 7/17/24

We continue making our way northwest around the peninsula.  We spotted another waterfall from the road, Grundarfoss, so we pulled in.  I initially got lazy and didn’t want to hike to the fall, but I felt like I’ve been gaining weight on this trip, so I thought I’d better get some exercises in.  Even though the weather is not sunny today, but it was mild, not as cold as I thought, and especially no wind.  It turns out to be a very pleasant walk to the base of the fall, with babling water in the stream running off from the fall.  The water is so clear that you can see all the colorful pebbles on the bottom of the stream.   Wild flowers in yellow, purple, and white colors graciously lined both sides of the stream.   The sight, sound and scent of nature brings so much joy & tranquility into my soul, and what a great way to start the day!

As we drive around this scenic road hugging the coastline, there were so many beautiful  spots that make you want to stop for pictures, but we weren’t able to pull over on these narrow roads.

We finally had a chance to stop at Snæfellsnesvegur, a lookout spot to the bay with several mounds that looks like mini islands.  It’s disappointing that no cameras can do justice to these amazing sites.

We encountered three matured Chinese ladies who were quite daring for their age to climb onto a narrow rock to pose and take pictures.  I certainly couldn’t do what they’ve done.   They seem to be having fun giggling taking pictures like teenagers.  So very cute! 😊

It was about 4:30pm, we need to start looking for a place to camp.   Paul spotted a small road splitting off from the main road, so we went down that path to search for a wild camp site.  Four miles down the dirt road, we found a service road that took us near the water and a potential camping spot for the night.  After we parked, somehow I didn’t feel right about this spot, instinctively just felt really off.  I can’t explain it, but felt really uneasy, so I asked Paul to find another camp site.  It took a loooong time, but we finally found a spot from the iOverlander app.  We finally arrived about 7pm and wild camped at a big bluff, overlooking an ocean bay in Flókalundur.

Thursday 7/18/24

Last night was rough with the high wind howling and rocking the truck throughout the night.  Seems like the Faroe Islands and Iceland are quite prone to high gusty wind, naturally, given their geographic locations.

We drove on the 612 highway until we hit the end of the road on the far west peninsula.  And at the end of the road is a pretty little church sitting on top of a hill, overlooking the beach.  A small hotel & restaurant are also in this very remote village.  After a restless night yesterday, we decided to camp early at the Breidavik Campground to recoup.

Friday 7/19/24

Making our way back towards Reykjavik to ensure we can hit the southern peninsula and the Blue Lagoon before I head home next week.

Paul wanted to take a short cut through the valley via the F66 to get on the other side of the peninsula for a change of scenery.   As soon as we turn left onto the F road, it looks more like a trail instead of a road.  It was rough and narrow, and not a single soul travels on this road.  My anxiety kicked in, but I braved it for a few miles.  Paul re-examined the map and checked online to ensure this road is not closed.   It seems we would have to travel at least 20+ miles or 1.5 hour to get on the main road.   Seeing how paranoid I was, he turned the truck around and got back on the main highway.  Phew!!!! I can breathe again….

We continue to be in awe with the amazingly picturesque sceneries almost at every turn on the road.

Another wild camping tonight in Kinnarstardir.

Saturday 7/20/24

Final stretch from the NW peninsula back to Reykjavik.   We made a couple of stops along the way, and finally camped just outside of Reykjavik.  Camped at seaside Akranes Tjaldsvæði.

Sunday 7/21/24

One cannot say you’ve been to Iceland if you don’t visit the Blue Lagoon! So we did.  The entrance fee is quite pricey, $105/person. The price includes one free drink, one silicon face mask, and the use of a towel.

The Blue Lagoon is much better than I thought.  It is beautiful with blue turquoise thermal pool.

“The Blue Lagoon’s geothermal seawater is 70% ocean water and 30% freshwater, enriched with silica, algae, and minerals. Not only is it a delight simply to soak in, it heals, rejuvenates, and nourishes.”

Ref bluelagoon.com

The swim-up bar was convenient for drinks, and the swim-up Mask bar dispenses various facial masks for us to apply on our face and wash off while in the pool.  It’s funny to watch people in the pool with white mask, green mask, and gray mask.   They all walk around without a care what they look like, both men and women.

The Blue Lagoon water is super clean without algae like the Secret Lagoon.  The facility is upscale inside and out.  We spent a good 1.5 hour in the Blue Lagoon vs 20 -30 minutes at the Secret Lagoon.

I was going to buy some of their facial masks but they are really expensive, more than the brand names skin care products in the USA.  Luckily we have BAT, otherwise their hotel room is about $650/ night.

Overall, that was a fantastic experience and very relaxing, soaking in the Blue Lagoon.  We even got a little sun tan today!

Camped at Hafnarfjörður Camping.  We got here about 7:30 pm and found a spot for BAT.

 Upon checking in to pay for the site, we found out that it’s fully booked.   We asked the receptionist, Katie, if we can just park in the parking lot since we don’t need to use any of the facility.   She said they don’t own all of their parking lot but she won’t chase us away for the night. What a sweet young lady! 😊

Monday 7/22/24

Chores day – we made a couple of attempts to do laundry in Reykjavik today, but failed since the city streets are so narrow for BAT and hardly any parking.  Frustrated, we drove towards Selfross and still haven’t located a laundromat yet. 

The weather is miserable today, high wind, cold and rainy again! We did stop by the Lava Cave, but the pictures in the brochure didn’t seem that impressive for $61/person so we left, and had lunch.  Paul stopped by a store to get some beer; another sticker shock – 24 cans for about $79!  Ouch!

Camping at Þorlákshöfn Campsite tonight to ride out this weather.  I finally took out my watercolor kit and started painting as I haven’t done any painting since I left home.  I tried to do some abstract painting, but it is a lot harder than I thought.  A couple of tries became a landscape painting and a floral tree.  It’s really hard to break out of that mold.  That turns out to be quite a relaxing afternoon.

Tuesday 7/23/24

We managed to find a campsite in Selfross with one washer/dryer to do my laundry, while Paul got his Icelandic haircut for $50+ so he can blend in with the locals 😉.  Afterwards, we drove back and camped at Þorlákshöfn Campsite since it’s closer to the airport for my departure tomorrow.

Upon checking in online for my flight, I discovered that my flight was in Keflavik not Reykjavik, which is further away.   Oops, that was close!  It would have been disastrous for me in terms of logistics if I had gone to the wrong airport since Paul would have just dropped me off and then move on.

Wednesday 7/24/24

Flight home.  Paul is going solo for the remainder of the trip as he wanted to really experience the F-roads without me whining like a girl!

In summary:

I don’t think there’s a word, sentence, paragraph, or chapter that can describe or capture the essence of Iceland. The raw beauty of nature is unmatched! If you have the opportunity to visit Iceland, you must do it to inhale this part of the earth that is truly a masterpiece from the almighty creator!  Let your eyes be mesmerized with the magnificent tapestry of the highlands, and the immaculate glaciers.  Let your ears be serenaded by the infinite and majestic waterfalls.  Let your face be brushed by the wind, rain, and sun of Mother Nature. Let your nose be filled with the scent of the rain, sea, permafrost, and fragrance of the Lupins & wild flowers swaying in the breeze.  Let your lung inhales and absorbs the pure fresh air that brings a smile to your face as you exhale in gratitude.  Let your lips smile and chat with the friendly Icelandic people, and taste the salty air, the fresh rain, or the mists from the waterfalls.  Let your heart be filled with joy and love that you are here and now.  Let your body be fully immersed in the natural hot springs that every part of your body just say “awwww” while you gaze at the steam mystifying the air surrounding you.  Let your feet be grounded to the earth as you meander through the valleys carved by glacial blue water, and hike the mountains to touch the clouds and the sky, and then only to leave footprints, yet take only the memories with you.   And know that the sum of all these sensations is called “experiencing,” … and that is “living!”