The Four Corners is the theme of this trip as we assume the weather is more bearable around this time of the year. According to Wikipedia, the Four Corners Monument marks the quadripoint in the Southwestern US where the states of Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, and Utah meet. It is the only point in the US shared by four states, leading to the area being named the Four Corners region.
Reflecting back on 2020, what have we learned?
- Freedom is precious especially during the lock down
- Human interaction is so vital to our mental health
- Loving your family means keep away from them to protect them
- The very fundamentals of greetings via hugs and handshakes are now voodoo
- Netflix became the family’s source of entertainment
- Toilet tissue is a hot commodity (who would have thought!)
- The ugliness of politics, regardless of which side you’re on, severely divides this great nation, family and friends.
- But despite all the negative outcomes… all of us were able to spend more time with our families, cherish what we have, and truly appreciate the freedom we once had. And we know that “this too shall pass…” May God bless this world and bring good will to mankind.
As I embark on this next segment, I am thankful to be on the road again to enjoy the various national parks in CA, AZ, NM, CO, UT. I feel whole when I’m out there witnessing God’s grandeur, his magnificent creation of this majestic earth — it makes me feel so small but so very humble. And who can sum it up better than Anthony Bourdain:
“It seems that the more places I see and experience, the bigger I realize the world to be. The more I become aware of, the more I realize how relatively little I know of it, how many places I have still to go, how much more there is to learn.”
3/9/21: We’re on the road again… We’re off to an easy start, maybe a good start , Wilson Creek winery in Temecula to pick up a few bottles of wine to start the trip out right! The pandemic seems to taper off as there are a lot more cars/traffic on the road than last year when we were trying to reach the arctic or at least Tuktoyaktuk. Lots of people at the winery for a Tuesday afternoon. Doesn’t seem like covid has any effect at this venue. People are out tasting wine, dining, picnicking here even though the weather is on the cold side. Paul and I shared one ticket, 6 flights. I sampled the white sweet wine and he had all the reds. They were nice but the ones we purchased at the Toccata winery in Solvang and Castillo di Amorosa are more suited to our tastes. It’s truly is a personal preference.
After combing the grounds of the winery and being tipsy (just me, the light weight), we decided to find a campsite for the night. We camped free at the Casino Pauma for the night. First dinner: ceviche shrimp salad paired with white wine and ciabatta bread, yummmmm!
Now it’s pouring rain outside, yet actually quite cozy inside, we don’t even have the heater on. One thing we don’t have to worry about BAT is that she will never be flooded as she’s on high heels, I meant “wheels!” 😁 (Paul edit…BAT is a HE and does not wear high heels!)
We’re turning in early tonight as it’s been a long day, not so much driving, but a lot of loading to get on the road. “And to all a good night…”
3/10/21 I slept in today after a drunken night! Just kidding! I did go to bed much earlier than usual, but the off and on pouring rain throughout the night pounding on the roof keeps waking me up.
We left the casino making tracks towards Julian, where Paul said this little town is famous for their apple pies. Sold! Don’t have to convince me twice. We were greeted with rain, sleet, hail and snow in the way. Julian is a small quaint town, would have been nice to walk around town. Paul said let’s go and check out the town. I looked at the miserable weather outside and said “I’m not getting out there and get sick !” Paul said” “well don’t you want your apple pie?!” Yup, he said the magic word! I bundled up in layers and braved it. We walked into a little cafe & bakery in town and had a bowl of chicken tortilla soup and a slice of pie. It was good, but not to die for. The restaurant was so darn cold since they had the window open for the bakery’s walk up order. By the time we got out of the restaurant the snow was coming down quite heavy but beautiful. I haven’t seen snow for a while. Attempted to walk the town, but I didn’t have a thermal base layer to roam when the cold air just cuts through to your skin so we decided to leave and head on to sBorrego Springs. We camped at the trail head for Fonts Point for the night, typical desert layout. Will have a light dinner tonight since we both are still half full from the bakery.
3/11/21 We put on our new ETX shirts in preparation for the droney. The ETX graphics was designed by Harrison, my son-in-law. He has raw talent as an artist! He made us stickers with the graphics for our Christmas present. We loved it so much that we decided to use it for our various shirts styles. Fonts Point was only a few miles down the road from where we camped. The landscape is like a scene from the movie Jurrasic Park or Land Before Time where dinosaurs roam free. It is quite spectacular. We took several drone shots and panorama pics of the area.
Paul got me the Canon PowerShot G5X Mark II for Christmas so I don’t have to haul the heavy fullsize canon DSLR, especially when hiking. Although it’s a conpact camera, it is packed with several features and very capable with various cool effects. Paul has the same camera so we’re constantly comparing our shots.
I think I like Anza Borego more than Death Valley, it’s easier to get to and more scenic. Paul still think DV is better. Perhaps I just didn’t like all the technical trails in DV.
We stopped by Borego Spring Christmas Circle and walked around town. Several men approached Paul to inquire about BAT. He won’t admit it, but i know he loves the attention. We walked into the gift shop and the attendant said :”are you Maggie & Paul?” I was pleasantly surprised and responded :”oh you must have seen our truck parked outside?” She smiled send said “yes, it’s hard to miss!” I asked her if we were too early for the dessert bloom season. She said not that you’re too early, but because we haven’t had much rain this year. What a bummer! Every year people gather here for this attraction, but no, when i decided to go, it decided to not bloom for me. We walked through a little desert garden and got a few exotic flowers in bloom to make for the superbloom. Oh well, better luck next time.
We bought a couple of souvenirs to support the local business and drove off to check out the metal animal sculptures scattered around the valley. The artist did an amazing job with the level of details on these lifesize animals. They were definitely a tourist attraction.
We made our way to Split Mountain Road as dusk began to envelope the region. I started to feel paranoid as the road was getting a bit rougher and wanted to camp before nightfall. Luckily we arrived at the trailhead for the Wind Caves just as the sun diminished behind the mountain and anchored for the night. We had an early dinner, checked out our pictures for the day and called it a night.
3/12/21 We’re finally doing a hike today. Hiking up the Wind Caves trail reminds me of how much I’m out of shape. Not so much from gaining a few pounds after all the holidays and festivities I’ve after another. It’s truly from the lack of exercise since the weather has been windy and raining for the past few months. I usually go swimming at the gym during the winter months, but of course the gym has been shut down due to Covid19. Once we reached the top, the mountain’s range opens widely to a 360 panoramic view. The palisades formed across the open landscape look almost like Greek columns at the Coliseum. And there, at the peak of the hill lies several wind caves.
The caves are formed from the high wind that carved out holes in these rocks which created an unusual site. It looks like caves for the Martians where UFOs can dock. Around the area are several Ocotillo trees which bear red flowers in the spring. These trees have so many spikes/ thorns that could really puncture if you accidentally grab them. We also saw a few barrel cactus, another unusual species that I have never seen before.
We lucked out with the nice weather for hiking today, not too hot, not too cold. Although the dark clouds did roll in, I felt a couple of droplets during the hike, but it never materialized into rain so we made it back all dry and sweaty. We moved to another location towards the Sandstone Canyon, setting up camp for the next day’s excursion. I don’t mind the adventure, but the desert is not my thing . I like beaches, green trees, and water falls a lot more than the dry desert. I feel like my skin needs am emergency hydration just after 3 days in the desert. I know, I know, they didn’t call me “Princess” for nothing!
3/13/21 It was terribly windy overnight with the wind constantly howling into the morning. Gusty wind sweep through about every five minutes. I decided not to go hiking into the Sandstone Canyon in fear of potential allergy attack, so I stayed in, taking it easy while Paul did go out exploring. We left the campsite heading back to civilization. Surprisingly there were several caravans going into the Anza Borrego state park for the weekend. I didn’t realize how popular this park is. BAT got several thumbs up and photos from the newcomers, mostly jeeps, pickups, Land Rovers, etc.
Besides all the spectacular mountain carving, water erosion rocks formation, we encountered a sight that cannot be unseen: a 100% naked motorcyclist who was starting his motorcycle. Of course we didn’t stop for the show, but we both wondered “was he NOT cold?!” You just never know what you might run into in the desert…
Back to the main FWY 8 east, we drove by a long stretch of sand dunes on both sides of the fwy. ATVs and motorcycles were ripping the sands like bandits whipping the old west . We decided to look for a campsite on the dunes and found the Buttercup park. This is quite a popular place with at least 50-60 RVs camping out with their ATVs/ motorbikes out on dunes skipping on the sands.
What a fun spot to hang out for the weekend. With so many activities happening on the sands and crowded park, we decided not to camp here as it would be quite rowdy at night as well. So we left looking for a quieter spot and landed at McCoy RV park in Winterhaven.
One of the challenges living on the road is you never know where you’ll camp until you’re tired and start looking for a spot on iOverlander. It’s not because we can’t plan ahead. We have a general agenda, route and destinations that we want to reach. We never know when and where to pull over because there are always interesting places that we see on the road and if it piques our interest, like the dunes, then we pull in to explore. It’s been a hit and miss, but mostly very favorable so far. “Not all who wanders are lost.”
3/14/21 We crossed the Arizona border as we headed towards the Organ Pipe National Park. The road is wide open, dry and deserted. One can easily fall asleep driving through the area. We crossed several small towns that look like the old west, little Mexico, and a little town calls “Why”, yes that’s the name of the town. One town has a sign that says “Population: 2….”
We finally arrived at the Organ Pipe National Park in the early evening. “The sights and sounds of Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, an International Biosphere Reserve, reveal a thriving community of plants and animals. Human stories echo throughout this desert preserve, chronicling thousands of years of desert living. A scenic drive, wilderness hike or a night of camping will expose you to a living desert that thrives.” Wikipedia
It is a very well kept park, with the Saguaro cactus lining up on both sides of the road saluting their visitors. We camped at the Twin Peaks campground inside the park for $20 /night for 2 nights. It is beautifully laid out with cemented foundation for each campsite. The campsite is surrounded by various cacti species, and a cactus garden. We walked around to scout the area and took several pictures inside the cactus garden. I didn’t think a cactus garden can be intriguing, but now I am inspired by the sight of this landscape in the middle of the desert. I got some awesome sunset pictures with the backlit against the cacti.
So why is this park called the Organ Pipe National Park? Here are some fun facts from the “Cactus Chronicle” published by the Park:
- Early settlers who encountered dead cacti were reminded of church pipe organs and called these cacti organ pipes.
- Organ pipe cactus may live 150 years
- An organ pipe cactus produces its first flowers at around 35 years. The pollinated flowers blossom at night and closed by mid morning the next day
3/15/21 We had pancakes for breakfast and then got on our e-bikes to explore the park, the Ajo Mountain Loop, a 21 mile scenic loop that crosses the Diablo Mountains to the base of the Ajo Mountains with a dense concentrations of saguaro and organ pipe cactus. I’m out of practice on the ebike as I only ride it a couple of times a year on these trip. It’s learning to ride this vehicle all over every time, except this time it’s more challenging on the rough gravel/dirt road. I got so much tension on my shoulders and hands gripping the breaks and the throttle swerving on the road like a drunken driver. I was constantly focusing on the ground instead of the scenery to make sure I don’t fall over. Half way through the loop, I decided to turn around and go back to the base camp as the tension mounts. Paul continues on to finish the loop and rewarded with the arch at the base of the mountain. Oh well, I missed out, but the ripple on the road caused so much vibration on the bike that was hard for me to control the bike and the sunglasses constantly bobbing up and down makes it hard to see the road.
We met two couple campers from Aspen, Colorado who came over to check out BAT. They were very friendly and brought over some beers for Paul. They invited us to visit Colorado if we have a chance to travel there. Renee promised to take me shopping for the proper outdoor gears when I come to visit. Yay! She spoke my language.
We made hamburgers with the outdoor grill for dinner. They turned out perfect! Paired with red wine and concluded the meal with rum cake. Seriously, life on the road ain’t bad!
Our supposedly “unlimited” data plan for the jetpack decided to go “limited” as we hit the threshold of 15G so it throttled back to the point of crawling with the wifi signal. Why do they call it “unlimited?!!!” I can’t wait for Elon Musk’s Starlink to fully deployed so we can have a decent signal on the road. “Elon? Can you hear me?… help!.”
Tomorrow, we’ll make our way into Tucson to visit a few friends.
3/16/21 We reluctantly left Organ Pipe Cactus park so we can get to Tucson in time to catch up with some friends. We didn’t have enough time to tour other attractions in the park as we didn’t know what to expect. Until next time…
We took the highway to Tucson where the road was just straight and boring. I zoned out with my noise cancellation headset as the truck is quite noisy. Every time I talk to Paul, I feel like I have to yell out loud for him to hear me.
We got to Tucson in the afternoon, camped at Prince RV Park for a couple of nights. Met up with Paul’s friends, James & Kelly Howard , who have done quite a few int’l overlanding trips in their Land Rover. They shared a lot of great do’s and don’ts tips on international travel. It’s great to get a woman’s perspective on this type of travel as I still have anxiety on certain parts of the world when it comes to overlanding.
3/17/21 It’s chores day, house cleaning and laundry at the RV Park. It’s actually nice to have a down day when you don’t have to rush to get on the road. We met up with my friend Kathleen and Mark.
We reminisced about our work over dinner at the Ole Mexican Grill. It sounds so much fun when you look back, but certainly was not when you were deep in the grind. It’s kinda like having a baby, you see your pretty child when you look back but you don’t remember the labor pain! We bid farewell with the biggest bear hug and promise to keep in touch.
3/18/21 We decided to get Paul’s 2nd vaccine done before going to the Museum. That process took a lot longer than expected. By the time we were done, I called the museum but they were sold out for the day due to limited capacity because of covid. After much debate, we decided to go into Tombstone for the weekends and stayed at an established campsite in case Paul has any severe symptoms from the 2nd vaccine. We camped at Tombstone RV Park for 2 nights. Very friendly place.
3/19/21 We took the shuttle from the campsite into town to tour the historic landmark. ” Truly a historical American Landmark, Tombstone is America’s best example of our 1880 western heritage. The American West is well preserved in Tombstone’s original 1880’s buildings and artifacts featured in numerous Tombstone museums. Silver is what brought people to this Apache land. Life was hard, but out of it grew a prosperous oasis and the fastest growing city between St. Louis and San Francisco in 1880. Tombstone merchants take pride in keeping their town as authentic as it was 100 years ago, giving the millions of visitors a real look back into the wild west as it really was, where the notables Wyatt Earp, Doc Holliday, Johnny Ringo, etc used to roam. ” Summary provided by the local businesses ‘ pamphlet.
The town did not disappoint. It has a fun vibe of the old west where visitors even dressed in that time period costume as they stroll through the shops and restaurants in the main strip of Allen st.
We saw a couple of gunfight shows, one inside a bar and one at the Ok Corral. It was the touristy thing to do, but fun to watch, and of course to support the local economy. Restaurants on the strip are packed with people, which is a good sign for the local businesses. By 5pm, most places were closed so we headed back to camp for an early night since Paul was feeling a little fatigue from the vax.
3/20/21 Moving on to Bisbee, “Located 90 miles southeast of Tucson and nestled among the Mule Mountains, Bisbee is the picturesque county seat of historic Cochise County. The community was founded in 1880, and quickly became a thriving urban center, driven by a booming mining industry that thrived on the area’s rich reserves of copper and precious metals. Today, frisbee’s extraordinarily well-preserved early- twentieth-century downtown draws visitors from around the world, who appreciate its historic architecture, it’s welcoming, creative spirit and its cool climate. “
We walked around town, a very quaint and popular tourist destination, vibrant shops and restaurants with a hipster vibe. After exploring the town, Paul wanted to boondock for a couple of nights to change the scenery. We found this place on iOverlander, Bradtown in Cochise, seriously in the middle of nowhere. I told Paul it costs more diesel to get here and out than to pay for a campsite. And I would have been ok with it if it was at least scenic, but no, just a dry dirt road with nothing to write about. Oh well, it’s always a hit and miss when you wander aimlessly and boondock .
3/21/21 Commute day to get to White Sands national park in NM. Camped at Walmart in Demings but it was so noisy at night, I can barely sleep. The weather was cold and very windy. I looked up White Sands weather forecast, it wasn’t favorable due to high winds. Paul thinks we should chanced it, but I didn’t want to be sandblasted at 27 MPH, so we’re switching to plan B, go to Carlsbad Caverns first and catch White Sands on the way back when the weather its warmer and no wind.
3/22/21 We’re now in central time zone. It will be a long commute day, crossing El Paso, Tx.
Sand storm is very common in this region of the US. There are warning signs along the 10 FWY. It’s hazy like a fog and twisters on the plains . Roads are just flat, straight, and boring. You can easily get driving fatigue here. We finally took refugee at the Guadalupe Mountains National Park. The RV camping area is more like a parking lot with restrooms. And of all time, my phone started to act up, apps are crashing. I started to freak out since the phone is my lifeline to home, navigation, research on the road, email, bills payment, etc. It is a 5 year old phone but in pristine condition and had been my companion on so many trips already. I had to Google recovery recommendations from various forums for these symptoms to self fix before we can get to a major city to potentially replace the battery or buy a new phone. Urgh@!@!!
We thought we’d be a bit more sheltered from the high winds in the mountains, but nooooo…. the wind got worse during the night. It was so strong that it rocks a 15K pounds truck — I thought I was in a moving cargo ship! and the howling was nonstop throughout the night. It kept me up till 5AM until I finally remember my ear plugs. Duh!!! What a saviour! It blocked the howling and allowed me to sleep for a few hours before getting up to get on the road again.
3/23/13 we crossed over to New Mexico and was greeted with a sign, “Welcome to new Mexico, Land of Enchantment.” arrived in Carlsbad and checked in to the White’s City RV Park. Today is just a chore day, laundry, etc. We got tickets to the Carlsbad Cavern for tomorrow , exciting!
3/24/21 the Carlsbad Cavern was waaaaay beyond my expectations! It took us 2.5 hours to hike all the way down and around the cave. The National Parks did an amazing job developing these paths fown the cave with assisted rails for visitors. It is very dark inside with few low lumens spotlights to illuminate the cave in strategic areas that enabled us to see our ways around as we descend down a 75 stories deep cave.
The stalagmite and stalactite formations have so many unique shapes that creates various themes and were named based on the visual outlines such as New York- New York , Fairly Land, Chinese Theater , etc. Every few step is a photo op. I’ve seen many caves, but this one is just absolutely astonishing! This should definitely be on your list to visit.
“Journey Underground – Your encounter with Carlsbad Caverns National Park begins in the Chihuahuan Desert of the Guadalupe Mountains. But beyond the somewhat familiar surroundings of rugged mountains and broad plains is another world. Away from sunlight! away from the flowering cactus, away from the songs of the desert birds and the howl of the coyote lies the celebrated underground world of Carlsbad Cavern. It is an incomparable realm of gigantic subterranean chambers, fantastic cave formations, and extraordinary features. The first adventurers entering Carlsbad Cavern had no idea what to expect as they walked, crawled, and climbed down into the darkness. Today many of the wonders of Carlsbad Cavern are well known, yet the experience of exploring its chambers is every bit as exciting. “Excerpts from the Park’s pamphlet.
3/25/21 Commute day to Roswell, NM. Been having problems with the BW and GW tank sensors. I guess we didn’t know that these holding tanks require regular maintenance until a foul odor started to come out of the sink. Live and learn!
Camped at a BLM land right next to the Bottomless Lake State Park in NM, outside of Roswell.
3/26/21 We decided to have lunch in downtown Roswell, the town known for UFO & aliens citing in 1947, and the biggest US government cover up way beyond top secret.
Well, I googled vietnamese pho and found this restaurant “Golden Star Pho ” with 4 stars rating. We got there looking at the place dumbfounded … and weren’t sure if we wanted to go in or not. Not because it’s rundowned with 2 homeless people sat in front of it, but when I poke my head inside to see if it’s the right place, it doesn’t look much like a restaurant and not a single customer inside, and the homeless man in front even said it’s Chinese food . I’m totally confused! I asked the waiter if this is a pho restaurant; he seems hesitant, but answered “yes”. Paul said since we’re here, let’s just go in. We both sat down and were given a typical fastfood Chinese menu with one line on top “House Special Pho”. Paul played it safe and ordered kungpao chicken. I decided to chance it and ordered pho, and was majorly disappointed. It was a tasteless broth that doesn’t smell anything like pho. This is what my former company would say: “you can’t perfume a pig!” Should have trusted my instinct and left upon arrival. The kung pao chicken was actually not bad.
We went on to the International UFO Museum, Paul’s long awaited attraction. And yes, another disappointment. They don’t have any artifacts, yet a lot of disclaimers at the entrance that nothing was confirmed, only testimonies from witnesses. The walls have printed newspapers and pictures of several service men from the army who were involved in the investigation at the time. I think these info could have been researched online without having to visit the museum. But ya gotta do the touristy thing when ya there! Now making our way back to white sands national park.
Camped at Boothill RV Park in Alamogordo, NM.
3/27/21 White Sand National Monument is incredible! “Like a mirage, dazzling white sand dunes shimmer in the tucked-away Tularosa Basin in southern New Mexico. They shift and settle over the Chihuahuan Desert, covering 275 square miles the largest gypsum dunefield in the world. White Sands National Park preserves more than half this oasis, its shallow water supply, and the plants and animals living here. ” excerpts from the park’s pamphlet .
The sands are powdery soft and as white as snow. It was so bright that the sunglasses didn’t even faze! Talk about a child who gets to play on the sands, that’s how I felt. Families are out with the kids on the sands sliding from the slopes like they would in the snow. Some little boys just roll down the hills while the parents stand by to catch them at the bottom of the hill.
In the distance,a bride is getting a photoshoot by a professional photographer. Everyone is out there enjoying the dunes in the sunshine. We were very lucky with the weather in the low 60s, comfortable to hike up the dunes without getting sun beaten. You can easily get lost out here with very few markers for back country camping. The park’s website even warn visitors don’t rely on your footprints to go back as the wind can cover up these tracks easily . Some campers wrote if you ever have the chance to camp out here and stargaze at night, it would be the most unforgettable experience of the lifetime! (I’m drooling!)
We took a little recess back in the BAT for a cheese and cracker snacks, waiting for the sun to dip and cast dramatic shadows on the dunes. We came back out around 5pm to take more pictures and get silly creative photography and slomo jumping videos. Paul got frustrated because he claims “white men can’t jump!” Is it gravity or age or a combination of both? Lol!!! We ended the day with a beautiful sunset on the dunes, and exit the park feeling as though we didn’t get enough of this magical paradise!
3/29/21 commute day to Santa Fe. Camped at KOA in Santa fe.
3/30/21 Toured old town Santa Fe. Lots of great shops and restaurants. We found the Luchese Boots shop and got me a pair of boots after trying on at least 10 pairs. Their boots are definitely high quality. Charlie, the Sales Associate, was so patient in helping me find the right fit for my very picky feet since I used to have neuroma so the shoes have to fit very comfortably, otherwise, they would be throbbing in pain. Can’t wait to wear mine! Paul got a pair too, and dare I say they look really hot! Unfortunately, they have to be made in the factory, which will take about three to four months to complete.
The temperatures are dramatically different here from day to night, 59/23F. By 6pm, I had on 4 layers , beanie and gloves and was still cold. Brrrrr….We dined at Tomasita’s restaurant. They have this item called Sopapilla served with whipped honey butter. It’s a kind of fried flatbread that puffed up. When served hot, the honey butter just melt on it, and that’s the end of me! (Is your mouth watering yet?) I can’t believe this is the first time I ever heard of Sopapilla and tried it. My new fav! I think I gained at least 2 pounds after this dinner. OMG, I will have to order it every time I go to a Mexican restaurant now.
3/31/31 A big shoutout to Shelley & Jared @ KOA Santa Fe for tagging us to collect the ETX sticker. Very friendly couple. It’s amazing who we meet on our road trip. Shelly & Jared, our Camp Host, raise two kids on the road. They get to travel across the country, love what they do and get paid for it. How many people can say that? What I love more than anything is seeing the children out in the park playing with each other instead of being isolated in a room playing on their iPads or other electronic means. I believe these interactions help build social skills, and definitely much healthier physically and mentally than playing with electronics.
As I travel to the various US States thus far, I get a glimpse of the various lifestyles, different scales of living standards, but there has been one common theme so far: people are kind, friendly, helpful regardless of their backgrounds. It gives me reassurance that not all hopes are lost despite what we all have been through last year and to date.
4/1/21 We took a stroll downtown Taos today after much anticipation. I guess we had such high expectations so this little town was a bit underwhelming. It’s an artsy town with several natives’ galleries; however, the shops in the Town Square were mostly shutdown. We didn’t see as many tourists as in Santa Fe. It felt like a sleepy town. Perhaps this is not the tourist season; or perhaps the pandemic has left its marks in this adobe village. It was definitely not thriving and this is a common theme that we have been seeing in other major cities such as San Francisco and Seattle. It just makes my heart sink to see the impact across the country.
So we have paid our tribute to New Mexico and now heading towards Durango, Colorado.
Camped at Tres Piedras National Forest. Beautiful wooded camp site.
4/2/21 Hwy 64, 10,000 ft high, OMG forest in the snow! Most scenic I’ve seen on this road trip. The crisp mountain air coupled with snow covered ground surrounded by birch trees and pines makes my heart jumps for joy. I’m taking it all in…we stopped every few miles for breathtaking views of snowcapped mountain and cabins buried in the snow. Growing up in the cities and living in the big cities my whole life makes me crave for the open fields, fresh air and nature in the wild. I’ve often wonder if I can live out in the middle of nowhere and be with nature 24/7 — a romantic notion but I’m sure not practical since you’d have to drive quite the distance to get to a grocery store, just a small local grocery store with very basic offerings. No life on the fast lanes!
We stopped in Pagosa Springs for lunch. Found a cozy little spot, the Kip’s Grill, where we enjoyed fish tacos and coconut margarita., excellent food and friendly service. Beautiful town seated against the foothill of mountains draped in snow with decorative flags on street lamps waving “Winter Wonderland.” This town must be very popular destination for skiers . So I looked it up per Google: “Pagosa Springs is known for its hot springs. It’s surrounded by the rugged San Juan Mountains and vast areas of national forest. The San Juan River, with its abundant trout, runs through town. To the northeast, Wolf Creek Ski Area offers downhill runs and cross-country trails. Southwest, Chimney Rock National Monument features the ruins of anient Ancestral Puebloan dwellings.” What a nice discovery for us to encounter this town, totally unplanned.
We finally camped at the Piedra East near Chimney Rock, part of the Rio Grande National Forest just as the sun starts setting in for the evening. We parked right next to the river so we can hear the water trickling downstream, so very pleasant and relaxing after a long day of commuting.
4/3/21 We were only about 35 miles from Durango, CO. The drive is easy today. We drove through the historic downtown Durango to scope out the town before checking in to the Alpen Rose RV Park. Accordingly to Wikipedia: Durango & Rio Grande Railroad were vital resources to many places helping transport goods and mineral traffic in and out of the southwestern Colorado. Today, the natural scenery along their Silverton Branch had been recognized as a major tourist attraction. And boy, did we missed out for not planning ahead. We wanted to take the famous scenic train ride from Durango to Silverton, “up into the Rocky Mountains with views of the San Juan National Forest, and alongside the beautiful Animas River on the way to the historic mining town of Silverton” per the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad description. but the tour doesn’t begin until May. Then I found out there’s a Cascade Canyon Winter Train tour, but of course, completely booked during our stay in Durango.
So plan B, we went to the historic downtown and enjoy the day shopping, drinking, dining. And had a nice dinner at the East by Southwest Japanese restaurant. We both were pleasantly surprise at how good the food was, especially the Mixed Tempura. Halfway through dinner, we thought, oh, should have taken some pictures for the website… hm…
4/4/21 Lazy day with laundry and catching up with the ETX website postings. Paul went out on a bike ride in the back country.
4/5/21 the road to Silverton is graced with aspen trees and pines on both sides of the road and topped with snow covered ground. Another epic eye-candy scenery. As we descend from the 10K+ elevation mountain, we can see the colorful Silverton town appears in the valley. Quite a unique site.
We walked downtown. It seems this town is heavily reliant on tourists since the train from Durango only runs on the weekends. Today is Monday and this place looks like a ghost town with 95% of the shops closed. It seems like we’re the only two lost tourists wandering through town.
We finally saw one restaurant open for business so we went in and had tacos, but the best part was the dessert, Cinnamon Dots. It’s the mini cinnamon bread, doughnut hole size, dipped in a hot creamy cheese sugar sauce, soooo good! That made my day!
Moving on to Ouray via the Million Dollar Highway. Camped at the Puray Riverside Resort.
4/6/21 we walked downtown Ouray. The town is situated on the foothill of the mountain with the snow draped over the top, almost looks like Mont Blanc in Switzerland (yes, a bit of exaggeration here, but so very pretty).
The weather is cold today, in the high 30s and ~ 12MPH wind kicking up dust that glides across the street just like the old western movies. I used to think that the movies created this dust blown across a scene just for the dramatic effect, but now I know that’s how it really is. Paul has to pay a tribute in every single one of these historic town by having a beer in the local pubs. It’s his thing!
We finally left Ouray and headed to Telluride, a ski resort, another quaint little town in a beautiful snow mountain area. Of course, we went shopping in the historic downtown, it’s tradition! Well, Paul and I splurged at the Overland store, known for the finest sheepskin, leather, wool, and other natural materials. The products are outstanding in quality and material but the price is as high as the altitude in this area 😉. Needless to say, we’re quite happy with our purchases! Paul, like a child, had the tag removed so he can wear his jacket right away.
As soon as we left the store , the tempt dropped to 30F with a wind chill factor, I raced to the truck for shelter even though I had 4 layers on with a thermal beanie and gloves. We camped at Caddis Flats Campground, easy access from the highway and it’s free ! Yay.
4/7/21 Making our way to the Mesa Verde National Park. To get there , we had to cross over the high mountain range again. And again, we get to enjoy the snow covered rocky mountain. You fill up my senses San Juan National Forest! Growing up in Idaho, I hated the snow due to the bitter cold in the winter, but now I can’t seem to get enough of it after living in CA for over 30 years. Isn’t that ironic!
Camped at the Ancient Cedars Mesa Verde RV Park.
4/8/21 Visited the Mesa Verde National Park. “The park covers 52,485 acres. Mesa Verde National Park was established in 1906 to preserve and interpret the archeological heritage of the Ancestral Pueblo people who made it their home for over 700 years, from 600 to 1300 CE. Today, the park protects nearly 5,000 known archeological sites, including 600 cliff dwellings. These sites are some of the most notable and best preserved in the United States.” Excerpts from the Park’s website.
“Using nature to their advantage. about AD 1200 Ancestral Pueblo people began to build their villages beneath the overhanging cliffs. Their basic construction material was sandstone that they shaped into rectangular blocks about the size of a loaf of bread. The mortar between the blocks was a mix of dirt and water. Living rooms averaged about six feet by eight feet. space enough for two or three people. Isolated rooms in the rear and on the upper levels were generally used for storing crops. The construction testifies they were experienced builders.” Excerpts from the park’s pamphlet.
The cliff dwelling sites were closed for the season, but we were able to see a lot of the sites from the overlook. It is truly amazing that the ancient Pueblos were able to build and dwell in these cliffside structures, given the limited tools they had in that time period. Don’t judge me but I’m glad I wasn’t born in that era; it’s just too harsh to survive.
At the end of the day, I was quite exhausted from hopping in and out of the truck, sun beaten, and then a long , rough trail ride to a BLM campsite that Paul found on iOverlander. Just when I was about to give up and say, “Just park any where, I’m exhausted!” we approached the ridge line and saw about 3 other campers in the area. We got a nice spot overlooking the valley and in the distance revealed the snow capped mountains. I exhaled in relief, had dinner and went straight to bed about 9:30 pm, so unlike me, but a very much needed rest.
I hate to confess, but before all these Overlanding trips, all I ever knew was plane rides, high end hotels, cruises and guided tours. So all of this is new to me, so forgive me if I whined a bit (or too much). It will take some time to adjust to this lifestyle. On top of that I have lumbar radiculopathy and sciatica– a bad combo for roadtrip. I can only take about 200 miles ride a day with stretch breaks in between, but I didn’t want these conditions to stop me from traveling and seeing the world!
4/9/21 we skipped the Four Corners Monument since it sits on an Indian Reservation and it was closed due to covid. Monument Valley its also closed for the same reason , but luckily Valley of the Gods is opened. “The Valley of the Gods is considered sacred to the Navajo, who interpret the giant sandstone monuments as ancient Navajo warriors frozen in stone – and time.” Excerpts from Bearsearscoalition.org.
Excerpts from Bluffutah.org: “Valley of the Gods is a scenic sandstone valley that features stunning geologic formations. The statuesque formations are sculpted from Cedar Mesa sandstone dating to the Permian period, around 250 million years ago. Eroded by water, wind and ice over millions of years, the rock was carved into the unique buttes, monoliths (single massive stone or rock), pinnacles and other geological features as seen today. The valley’s magic colors and shapes surprise visitors at every turn. The Valley of the Gods is truly a geological masterpiece, rightfully earning its reputation as “a photographer’s paradise.”
We found a sweet spot inside the park with amazing views all around us. Settled in for the night and ready to explore the park tomorrow. I was really exhausted after dinner so I decided to take a Vitamin B complex supplement to boost my energy level. Well, that pill works wonder! I was wide awake all night, then at 2:30AM, I saw bright light through the crack of the skylight window, I pulled the shades open and behold! heaven descended upon me. Millions of bright stars are waving at me. They are hanging so low, I thought I can just reach for them. I woke Paul up for some night photography. When he saw the stars through the skylight, he didn’t hesitate. I was going to stay inside since I knew it was going to be cold outside. But since I couldn’t sleep anyway, I decided to come out and play.
OMG, for the first time in my life, I can see the Milky Way with the naked eyes. I was so excited to get some nightsky pictures, but after a few, the bitter cold just cuts right through the skin. We came back inside to reset and put on more layers and came back out for a few more pictures. When it was all said and done, we crawled back in bed at 4AM shivering under the cover ….
4/10/21 we continue driving through the valley and the sceneries keep getting more wonderous. Paul got his drone out for a “follow me” shot. As we continue down the road, I suggested we should take the gimbal out to record the sceneries as we drove along. Paul stopped the truck in the middle of the narrow switchback road to go get the gimbal from the garage. A good Samaritan came out to check in on us, and when he understood our minipause, he suggested a camp site going back around the bend, which means Paul has to back up the truck on this windy road and drive up on this narrow cliff to get on a small bluff . Needless to say, I got out of the truck and walked up the ledge to where Paul is maneuvering to park the truck. It turns out to be an epic spot, tucked behind a monolith right in the middle of all the buttes and pinnacles. Jackpot!!!!
Once situated, we brought a couple of beers over to thank the good man who help pointed us in the right direction. So we met Steve and Janet from Utah and chatted for over an hour, exchanging travel tips and life stories . Janet gave me some home baked cookies and chocolate candies. What a wonderfully friendly couple! I love meeting travelers on the road with so much human kindness to share .❤❤❤
Now that we’re in an incredibly strategic location in the canyon, we’re going to do another attempt of night photography. So we set our alarm clock for 2:30 AM, geared up and got outside for another night of stargazing. Tonight the stars are not as bright and as low as the night before, but not as cold so that’s a blessing! I did see a shooting star, and lots of twinkle like diamonds in the sky… go on, hum along, twinkle twinkle little star….How often does one get to experience nature like this?!
4/11/21 We did a 2 miles hike around the valley early afternoon. starting off from our campsite was a steep downhill with all loose gravels. It was much harder than I thought as we continued our descend. Even with the hiking boots on , I was skidding quite a bit. This is where the hiking poles would have been really helpful! We made our way down the washboard and snaked around the canyon. Not very scenic but a great exercise for the day. Came back to our campsite, cleaned up, enjoyed olive bread & cheese and Paul’s potent margarita that will knock you out cold. 😁
4/12/21 heading to Page, AZ. We passed by Monument Valley, although it is closed, we did have a sneak preview from the road. Quite impressive and a bit similar to the Valley of the Gods in terms of monoliths and buttes. Dinner at New York Teriyaki, excellent. Camped at Wahweap RV marina. Beautiful and clean RV park.
4/13/21 we’re going back to Alstrom Point in the Glen Canyon Recreation area. One of our most favorite camping location. We camped here back in 2016 with the landrover & trailer with a roof top tent. The first time I saw the landscape on the trail, the whole area looked like a wasteland where the military test their nuclear weapons. When we got out of the Canyon and went to the visitors center, I inquired about this area and the ranger politely answered this whole section was under water millions of years ago, and through times and natural elements, that’s how it looks today. No military equipment was ever tested here (LOL, wild imagination on my part).
I have forgotten how long & rough (towards the end) the dirt road was to get here. Although the GPS indicated that it is only 42 miles in distance from Page, it actually took us almost 3 hours crawling through this trail. But once you see the view, it is definitively worth it. We finally found the camping spot from 5 years ago. Parked on the edge of the cliff overlooking lake Powell. The view is still incredible but it’s quite cloudy today and windy so we didn’t get that amazing blue water color reflecting from the sky like we did last time. We thought as the sun sets, it would get more dramatic, but the weather condition worsen so all we got was the gray sky and more winds. The wind was so heavy, it rocked BAT like a ship in the storm. I literally got motion sickness like seasick. Could be because I was sick from the night before and couldn’t sleep till 6am.
4/14/21 Morning after Paul went for a hike while I slept in. He came back after talking to a few other campers who pointed out the actual trail to Alstrom Point so we packed up and headed in that direction. And there she is, in all her glory, Alstrom Point reveals herself in grandeur. We gasped in joy that we finally found the right spot. We got our cameras out and started capturing images of Gunsight Butte and Alstrom Point at various angles. We got our chairs out and just sat and gazed at what I called “the Lost City of Atlantis!”
After we got sun beaten and wind beaten, we retreated inside waiting for the golden hour for more dramatic landscapes photography. The Butte didn’t glow as the sun sets as we’d hoped, but we took some pictures anyways . There were several professional photographers out on the cliff with their tripods. From where I stand, these guys are absolutely crazy where they positioned themselves especially with the high winds in the area. I seriously feared for their safety. I guess their passion outweighed their fear!
4/15/21 Moving on to the Grand Canyon National Park. The distance wasn’t that far but crawling our way out of the Glenn Canyon Recreation area took over 2.5 hours. We made it to Grand Canyon as the evening approaches, but was able to squeeze in a quick stop at the “Grand Canyon First Look/Desert View” for a sneak preview of the jaw dropping views of the Canyon. Camped at Mathers campground inside the park.
4/16/21. “Grand Canyon National Park, founded in 1919, is one of the oldest national parks in the United States and is home to the awe-inspiring Grand Canyon, a 1-mile deep gorge carved by the Colorado River. Long considered one of the seven wonders of the world, visitors flock to see this unique combination of geological color and erosional forms.” Excerpts from the Grandcanyonlodges.com.
We got our ebikes out to explore the park. Grand Canyon is so grand, it’s impossible to see all the main attractions in 2 days. It is definitely amazing how this massive Canyon was carved into perfection by the world’s most talented architects: wind and water! We also did the hop on hop off red line bus ride on the west side of the canyon. It was quite convenient for tourists. It is definitively cold here with 50s high and 20s low tempt . By 5pm, we had to head back to camp as riding the bike was getting uncomfortable due to the wind chill factor.
4/17/21 While filling up our water tank, we met several other visitors inquiring about BAT. One happens to be a Tiny Homes designer, Lesa, also an architect. During our conversation, her two daughters, Miracle & Harvest, were running around talking to us, and Miracle, the 8 year old young lady presented us with a picture of BAT that she quickly drew while we were filling up the water tank. The drawing is quite impressive as she signed and dated it too.
Camped at Coconino National Forest on the way to Flagstaff.
4/18/21. Made our way into Sedona via the south end. We stopped at Bell Rock and did a little hike to the vista. By then, it was getting late so we boondocked in the national forest nearby.
4/19/21 we cruised downtown Sedona. It’s amazing how this quaint town had changed to a major tourist attraction. There’s a roundabout just about every mile of the main stream and even then traffic was quite congested. The last time I was here was almost 20 years ago, since then, the town had become unrecognizable, overly commercialized. Probably good for the locals.
Walking through town we discovered the Tlaquepaque Village, an old Spanish village with boutique shops and restaurant. In the middle of the village, two flamenco guitarists were performing for tourists. I love the sight and sound and the vibe of this village, feeling like I’m actually in a romantic village in Spain. We had a light lunch at the Secret Garden in the village. Every restaurant we went to had a 45 minutes wait…. We also visited the Winery 1912 to check out the local wine. They had a warm and friendly ambiance with a fantastic view of the red rocks. That was a 10,000 steps tour of the town
We finished the day at Mesa Grill for dinner. Excellent food, every single menu item was brilliantly elevated. We both really enjoyed our meal. No wonder the place was packed, we couldn’t have gotten in if we didn’t make reservation the day before. What a perfect ending for a full packed day.
4/20/21 We took the scenic 89A highway out of Sedona, a beautiful drive just as I remembered it. Sedona was the last place we visited; the rest of the trip was heading home in time for a family’s member wedding. In summary, ~ 8 weeks on the road, 4 US states, 208 cities, 600 places, and thousands of wonderful memories to share with friends and families.
Endless Trail Expeditions 